Hi, I’m Kayla. I fly a lot in Microsoft Flight Simulator and DCS. I used to click everything with my mouse. Yuck. So I bought a real button box for my desk. *(If you’d like the blow-by-blow of that first experience, you can read exactly what happened when I tried a flight-sim button box.)* I went with the Winwing Orion 2 Takeoff Panel (and if you’re curious about how the matching Orion 2 Throttle Base feels, that deep-dive covers build quality and ergonomics). I’ve also used a VIRPIL Control Panel #2 at a friend’s place. And yes, I even built a small DIY box with a Leo Bodnar board and a label maker. Wild times.
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You know what? A button box feels silly at first. Then your hands learn it. Then you can't go back. Well… almost. I’ll explain.
The Setup: Not Hard, Not perfect
I plugged the Winwing panel into a powered USB hub. That part mattered. When I first tried a regular port, some buttons sent ghost inputs. The lights flickered too. A cheap powered hub fixed it.
The Winwing software (SimApp Pro) found the panel, flashed firmware, and gave me backlight control. It worked, but it felt heavy on my PC. (A full Orion 2 HOTAS system unboxing and dimension rundown goes even deeper if you’re eyeing the whole kit.) I set it to not auto-start. After that, no fuss.
Mounting was easy. I stuck it to my desk with 3M Dual Lock. Later I used a Monstertech side mount so I could keep my keyboard close. The panel has weight. It doesn’t slide, even when I slam the gear lever like a goof.
Real Stuff I Mapped (And Use Daily)
In MSFS (Cessna 172, Fenix A320, and PMDG 737):
- APU on/off (APU is the small starter engine)
- Battery 1 and 2
- Fuel pumps
- Beacon, strobe, taxi, and landing lights
- Pitot heat and anti-ice
- Gear lever with the fun clunk
- Flaps on a guarded switch
- Autopilot master, NAV, APR, HDG, VS
- A knob for heading bug (the Winwing has encoders; they feel crisp)
- Push-to-talk for ATC on a red cap switch
- TrackIR recenter and VR recenter on the same row, with different caps
*(Curious how dedicated autopilot hardware stacks up? I spent months testing three different units, and you can see what actually worked in my autopilot-panel comparison.)*
In DCS (F-16 and A-10C):
- Master Arm under a safety cover
- Laser arm
- CMS forward/aft for countermeasures
- Air refuel door
- Hook and canopy
- Lights to “NVG safe” settings when I fly at night
In X-Plane 12 (C172 and Zibo 737):
- Magnetos (mapped to a 5-way switch set: off, R, L, both, start)
- Fuel pump, pitot heat, and panel lights
- Simple AP hold for Heading and Alt
Little note: Toggles can get “out of sync” with the sim when you change planes. I fixed this with AxisAndOhs (per-aircraft profiles) and by using “Set” commands, not “Toggle” ones. That kept my switch state true. (Those fixes were part of the biggest lessons I learned after trying a button box for flight sims in the first place.)
The Feel: Clicks, Caps, and Night Flying
The faceplate is metal. The switches are not toy-like. The encoders have steps you can feel. At night, the backlight is sweet. I set it low, or it glows too much. I stuck tiny labels next to groups. Nothing fancy. Just clear.
VR folks: this panel shines there. You can reach by muscle memory. No more poking at a ghost knob with a VR controller. That alone sold me.
Side note: my DIY Bodnar box was fun. I wired 12 toggles. I used a Dymo label maker for tags. It worked fine, but there was no backlight. In the dark, I hunted for the de-ice switch like a raccoon in a trash can. So I went back to Winwing.
What Bugged Me
- Software felt heavy. It wants to run all the time. I turned that off.
- LED sync broke once after an MSFS update. A firmware reflash fixed it.
- Shipping took two weeks. I paid a small import fee.
- It eats desk space. My coffee had to move (RIP old spot).
- Toggle mismatch can happen between aircraft. Per-plane profiles help.
The VIRPIL panel I tried felt a bit tougher. The knobs had more bite. But I liked the Winwing gear lever more. It’s loud in a nice way. *(For a longer stint with a dedicated switch panel—three full months—see this hands-on report.)*
Tips That Saved Me Headaches
- Use a powered USB hub. Trust me on this.
- Map “Set” actions, not “Toggle,” for things like lights and fuel.
- If you switch planes often, use AxisAndOhs or SPAD.neXt for profiles.
- Start with just ten controls. Fly. Then add more.
- Label by function, not by plane. Example: “Ice,” “Fuel,” “AP,” “Views.”
- Turn the LED brightness down at night. Your eyes will thank you.
Who Should Buy One?
- If you fly IFR a lot, yes. The quick AP and light control helps.
- If you fly warbirds or jets in DCS, double yes. Master Arm on a real cover is chef’s kiss.
- If you only do short VFR hops on a laptop? A Stream Deck might be enough. It’s smaller and still very useful.
The Good and The Not-So-Good
Good:
- Solid build, real click feel
- Backlight helps at night
- Great in VR
- Gear lever joy
- Easy mapping with per-plane tools
Not-so-good:
- Bulky on a small desk
- Software is a bit much
- Needs a powered hub
- Can go out of sync without care
My Verdict
I thought a button box was extra. I was wrong. Mostly. If you care about feel, it’s worth it. My cold starts are fast. My landings are cleaner. I fumble less. I even talk to ATC without hunting for a key.
Would I buy it again? Yep. I’d still pick the Winwing Orion 2 Takeoff Panel. The VIRPIL panel is great too, if you want even firmer knobs. My DIY box was cute, but I like lighted labels and a proper gear handle.
Score? 9 of 10 for sim nuts. 7 of 10 if your desk is tiny.
If you get one, map five switches first: battery, fuel pump, lights, gear, flaps. Fly a circuit. Feel the clicks. That little rhythm? That’s why we do it.